Whatever Suits You - The Ultimate Men's Fashion Blog by Srikant (Sri) Ramaswami

Moreschi

2011-03-01T09:32:00.000-08:00

Aah it's too bad. One of the last small shoe businesses is driven out of the United States. Moreschi had a beautiful line of shoes www.moreschi.com.
But they are no longer sold in the United States. You may be able to still find a few sizes at 50 percent off at Garmany in Red Bank www.garmany.com. I hope you see what they have left. Styles are incredibly beautiful. I also hear that their NYC store is closed.

China Bespoke

2011-02-25T03:11:00.000-08:00

So I decided to try a new tailor in Beijing where I am now living. I contacted the concierge at my hotel who put me in touch with Brown Tailors. They have been suiting Chinese ambassadors for years and came highly recommended by the hotel. I was fairly skeptical because I've had stuff made in Shanghai before and it was not a sybaritic experience. Not like Hong Kong or Raja Tailors in Bangkok. But the hotel asked me to give it a try and try I did.

Within an hour, the tailor arrived at my hotel room with a bundle of swatches. Brown tailors has two stores in Beijing - Yashou and Pearl markets to be precise. I looked at the swatches and althought they were super 130S, tt was a local Chinese mill - Not Holland & Sherry or Loro Piana or Dormeiul. I reluctantly agreed to make a pair of trousers. The tailor quoted me $150 and I bargained down to 80 bucks. He told me the trousers would be delivered to my hotel room the next evening by 10 p.m.

The next day, at around 9 p.m., I received a text message from the tailor apologizing that the trousers were not ready. I told him I needed them urgently as I had a flight to catch the next morning. Around midnight, there was a knock at my door. The trousers had arrived.

I paid for them and put them on. I was highly impressed by the tailoring and quality. I will definitely be going back to Brown Tailor.

I'm back!

2010-05-25T06:54:00.000-07:00

Folks:

I have decided that procrastination is the art of keeping up with yesterday and it's so 2009. So I am back and promise to blog about fashion, music and other relevant quotidian happenings regularly. So what's new? I discovered this guy in Manayunk, Pa who does a fabulous job on bespoke clothing. His prices are pretty good too and he is honest to a fault. His name is Marcos Vargas and his store is called Senor Custom for Men. They've got an emerging women's section too. Check Marcos out at http://cityvoter.com/senor-clothiers-for-him-4390-main-st-manayunk-philadelphia-pa-19127/loc/56878. His blazers are made from Dormeuil http://www.dormeuil.com/ and Loro Piana fabric. He's got other phat swatches too. Check him out. Perhaps the best bespoke gig in North America.

Ravi Ratan

2009-04-03T09:37:00.000-07:00

I'm a huge fan of cufflinks. And, my favorite are made my Jan Leslie (www.janleslie.com), a former Wharton graduate. I also love Aaron Basha's line (www.aaronbasha.com) but they are wicked expensive. Lately I am seeing more and more of Ravi Ratan (www.raviratan.com) and I have to say his cufflinks are pretty well made and not too profligate. Check them out online. An easter gift perhaps?

I have a dream - Vinyl Mania

2009-04-02T07:53:00.000-07:00

For years, I visited downtown records and vinyl mania to listen and buy my favorite recordings. Those days are gone, and the stores, sadly, have folded. But there's been a revival ofLarry Levan's paradise garage, Rubell's Studio 54, and Brooklyn's own Joe Causi on satellite radio. Tune in to the strobe for that old school vibe. I've been listening to some of that vintage wax on my rides up and down Route 206. Here are my top 10 recommendations.

1. Hold Tight - Change
2. Gonna Get Over You - Viola Wills
3. Thank God it's Friday - Love and Kisses
4. Take it to the Bank - Shalamar
5. Native New Yorker - Odyssey
6. Caught Up in a One Night Love Affair - Inner Life
7. There But for the Grace of God - Machine
8. Runaway - Salsoul Orchestra
9. Outstanding --The Gap Band
10. Somebody Elses'Guy - Jocelyn Brown

I have a dream that one day I will finish my book and that Spielberg will buy the rights to it. If so, I plan to have a contractual clause that includes these 10 songs as the soundtrack to my movie. Ciao.

Keeping Dry

2009-03-30T11:31:00.000-07:00

I've had drama around rainy days. Do I wear my leather drivers, or sneakers to work before I change out into formal shoes? And, what about a Mackintosh (www.mackintoshrainwear.com) raincoat? Should I get one soon? Perhaps I'll ponder these thoughts throughout my OCD infested summer, but I have to make the case for SWIMS this season. Their stuff can be found on http://www.swims.com/ and they make some of the dopest raingear I've ever seen. Most interesting is their colorful line up of galoshes and their automatic fold umbrella. Check them out today.

Bally

2009-03-30T11:22:00.000-07:00

My father was a big fan of Bally shoes. He liked the ones that were made in Switzerland, often flexing them in front of me and proudly declaring their softness. In fact, many of the folks who wear Bally shoes, are incensed by their obduracy of the shoe's fit and feel.

I never was a big BALLY fan, but I've been blown away this year. I ran into Suzanne Ellis from Bally at Saks a few weeks ago. She's in sales for the company and she walked me through their newest lines, including the deerskin mocs that are unbelievably soft and comfortable. But for me, the real twist this spring is Bally's take on the wingtip oxford. They've built a work of art with the most amazing pattern - subtle white dots on the inside and white laces on a beautiful black base. They've even got some lovely slip ons this season and a $1000 shoe care kit to boot.

Check out the latest styles on www.bally.com. Exquisite.

Air Force One

2009-02-17T18:43:00.001-08:00

On Sunday, my United flight taxied toward the runway for my trip back from Chicago to Newark. But was I in for a surprise. The stewardess, told us to look out of the window to see - parked in all its pristine glory - Air Force One. I've never see that Jumbo before, but it is awe-inspiring with its beautiful colors and all. I own a pair of airforce one cufflinks. You should get one too. The new ones even have the President's signature on the back.

Dermalogica

2009-02-17T18:38:00.001-08:00

I love the Dermalogica brand -- fresh, exciting, good. And I have been using their face wash and skin cleanser for a pure, clean feel. Go to www.dermalogica.com and check out their offerings for men. Great line that you will enjoy using.

Can Do

2009-01-20T18:13:00.000-08:00

I've started a grueling gym routine after finding my double chin on the bathroom counter four months ago. And the gym I go to is awesome. It's called Cando (http://www.candofitness.com/) and has a spa that's attached called Koi Spa (http://www.koispa.com/). The spa is awesome and takes Spa Finder gift cards. But what I LOVE is that Cando sells e-shave products (http://www.eshave.com/). Go try this line, especially the rose scented shave cream. I think it's comparable to Geo Trumper's and only half the price. They also make an awesome badger brush.

Smileceuticals

2009-01-20T18:07:00.000-08:00

So Blue Mercury in Princeton has my number. I mean literally. They called me up and said that I needed to stop by to try the new line of Go Smile products. So I went over last Saturday and was introduced to this awesome line. Just visit http://www.gosmile.com/gosmile/ and see for yourself. I bought some vials of their after meal tooth cleanser and breathalyzer and I'm seriously in love. The taste is minty and oh so refreshing. Try this line some time. Aaaah...

The Inauguration & Fashion

2009-01-20T18:00:00.000-08:00

Ok. So I saw the crowds cheering for Obama and Biden. But I was more interested in their suits and ties. I have spent many a time on the Metroliner sitting next to Joey (Joe Biden) in the cafe car. I have admired his JRB cufflinks, and his choice of beautiful Hermes and Ferragamo ties. I also think he wears his suits brilliantly, the right cut, the right length, and just enough sleeve to showcase his fine links. Today, he looked superbly crisp with his gorgeous blue tie.

But I think the President can learn from Joey. I don't think President Obama's suits fit him well. Not sure he goes to the right tailor, but the fit around his shoulders is poorly tailored. I also think he should dump the three-button suit for a more trendy single button, double vented look. And, flat fronts with flares are where he needs to go. I was horrified during the campaign trail, when he wore shoes with holes in the sole. Not cool. I suggest he send them to me. I'll fix em for a small fee and send them back to 1600 Pennsylvania.

On chapped lips and chapstick

2008-12-18T10:49:00.001-08:00

I've spent many a winter looking for that perfect chapstick. And let me tell you that most of the brands out there aren't great. Dr. Hauschka's http://www.drhauschka.com/ is so soft that the chapstick breaks off when you've used a bit. Kiehl's lip balm with spf http://www.kiehls.com/ is nice, but too thick and goopy. I've also tried the natural beeswax brands without much success. Now, I am pleased to report that I have found the mother of all chapsticks made by Jack Black at http://www.getjackblack.com/. The consistency is terrific and the eucalyptus sticks are amazing. Try it on and I guarantee you'll be using it again and again.

Domenico Vacca

2008-12-04T13:54:00.000-08:00

If you ever want to buy the finest clothes that money can buy, my bets are on Domenico Vacca. Mr. Vacca's bespoke galleries can be found in New York, Beverly Hills, Miami, Palm Beach and Qatar. Just go to http://www.domenicovacca.com/ or dial 212 759 6333 and make an appointment. If you aren't convinced that their line of clothing is quality, get your eyes checked. From watches, to shoes, to shirts, to suits, these guys have the very best in everything.

Bio:

Domenico Vacca is responsible for bringing back exceptional luxury and quality to fashion.
Born in Italy, in 1962, Vacca's family is deeply rooted in the craft of fashion. His grandmother, recognized as one of the finest tailors in Southern Italy, was a great influence on Vacca's sartorial style.
In 2002 Vacca launched his label available exclusively through his first store on New York's Fifth Avenue spearheading the sartorial trend in fashion. Joining forces with his wife Julie, Vacca launched a total lifestyle collection for men and women. By combining the best of Italian craftsmanship, superb fabrics, and an impeccable fit with a contemporary Neapolitan cut, the Domenico Vacca label is known as the "Ferrari of clothing".
Vacca was recognized in 2004 and 2006 by the prestigious Robb Report Magazine with the Award for Best Italian Collection in their annual Best of the Best issue.
In 2006, Best Life Magazine recognized the Domenico Vacca tie collection as the finest in the world.
From 2002 to 2006, Domenico Vacca opened six stores in the United States; New York (Fifth Avenue, Madison Avenue and Soho) Beverly Hills, Bal Harbour and Palm Beach. In 2008, Domenico Vacca will open two other locations in the United States, one in Atlanta and the other one in the Plaza Hotel in New York city, as well as in London, Milan, Moscow, Dubai and Qatar.
For Domenico Vacca, quality is where the integrity of his namesake label begins. With 100 master tailors and 250 seamstresses to sew and construct his collection by hand in Naples, Italy, Vacca offers ultimate luxury in fashion where timeless pieces meet flattering fits, styles and fabrics creating an exceptionally chic lifestyle collection. A unique and exclusive custom order program allows clients to choose from more than 2,000 fabrics and an unlimited selection of exotic skins in various colors for the accessories.
In 2005, Domenico Vacca became a favorite with Hollywood costume designers by collaborating with them to wardrobe lead actors and actresses in films such as The Inside Man (Denzel Washington, Jodie Foster, Christopher Plummer), Stranger Than Fiction (Dustin Hoffman, Will Ferrell, Queen Latifah), August Rush (Jonathan Rhys Meyers), American Gangster (Denzel Washington), The Kite Runner (Shaun Toub), The Accidental Husband (Colin Firth), Chilled in Miami (Rene Zellweger), Nothing but the Truth (Angela Bassett) and TV series such as HBO Entourage (Jeremy Piven), Lipstick Jungle ( Brooke Shields) and FX's newest drama Damages (Glenn Close).
Domenico Vacca 's loyal customers include music and Hollywood's biggest names such as Kanye West, Usher, L.A. Reid, Sean P. Diddy Combs, and Yoko Ono; A-list actors, Jeremy Piven, Will Ferrell, Steve Carell, Antonio Banderas and Scarlett Johansson; New York City's Fortune 500 and VIPs Ronald Perelman, Ronald Lauder, Gustavo Cisneros, Edgar Bronfman Jr, Pepe Fanjul, Giuseppe Cipriani, Ivana Trump and Anne Bass along with designers Valentino and Tommy Hilfiger.
At the 2007 Academy Awards, Domenico Vacca became the Oscar team's designer of choice. Forest Whitaker (Best Actor), Alan Arkin (Best Supporting Actor) and Melissa Etheridge (Best Music Score) all accepted their Oscars wearing Domenico Vacca along with attendees Steve Carell, Jack Black, Will Ferrell.
Domenico Vacca lives between the United States and Italy with his wife, Julie, and his son Robert.

A Madison Avenue Marketing Maverick Does His Bit for Palmer Square

2008-12-03T12:42:00.000-08:00

Stephen Seo is a genius. A gentle genius. And when it comes to bespoke fashion, I don't believe you can find a better eye for style, elegance, fabric, quality, and color. Just walk into his Palmer Square store in Princeton, NJ, or visit www.stephenseo.com to see his offerings. Mr. Seo is even into women's fashions now and makes stellar overcoats and dresses for women.

I've visited Stephen's store about a dozen times, and I'm always floored by his good nature, his eye for detail, and his pursuit of perfection. He's never pushy, always honest, and a hell of an avuncular guy. Just look at his range of pocket squares, ties, bespoke shirts, all beautifully made, at reasonable prices. His suits offer side vents, ticket pockets, funky lining, and sharp tailoring. Stephen has an aura about him and people walk into his store not only to buy, but to cultivate relationships. Stephen brings people together through fashion, and that's why Princeton takes a vested interest in his success.

I hope you'll get a chance to visit Stephen Seo's and get to know the man. Palmer Square shines a little brighter because of him.

Philadelphia

2008-10-29T06:39:00.000-07:00

Ok - -so the Phillies look like they're going to win the world series and Boyd's is named retailer of the year. Check out http://www.mrketplace.com/content/features/issue-overview/issue-story/?no_cache=1&tx_magissue_pi1%5BshowUid%5D=557 and my other posting about Joel Jaffe at Boyd's. Way to go Philadelphia. Show 'em some soul.

Barker Black

2008-10-06T14:06:00.000-07:00

The British take quality to high levels. I'm here to promote the phattest shoes I've seen in a long time. Barker black. www.barkerblack.com. Take a look at the link and tell me if you agree. They're absolutely dope and the styles are so renegade - what with the skull and bones motif? I heard that this company will even resole your shoes for you. Great stuff.

The Top 10 Fashion Nevers

2008-10-06T14:00:00.000-07:00

10. Never wear tassel loafers - period.
9. Never wear your sports cap backward (unlerss you're under 21).
8. Never use starch on high end shirts.
7. Never wear colored underwear with white pants.
6. Never get a tattoo that you'll live to regret.
5. Never call back a cell number you don't recognize.
4. Never wear socks with holes in them.
3. Never wear shoes with water-marked soles.
2. Never wear trousers with full breaks that sweep the floor.
1. Never wear a t-shirt under a blazer.

Instant coffee

2008-08-29T10:44:00.000-07:00

Ok. So many of you guys on the fly love coffee. But where's the time to grab a good cup of Joe sometimes? I'll tell you something - I've tried almost every brand in the world and I've got three favorites you just can't go wrong with. The first, believe it, is the Folgers coffee bag. Dip it in hot water for 1.5 minutes and taste the rich aromatic, flavor. It's really good coffee - http://www.folgers.com/. Then there's Bru from India -- coffee with chicory - -that's just amazing - rich in taste and full on flavor. The Patel Cash & Carry in Iselin or North Brunswick carries this. Finally, there's Davidoff's Rich Aroma instant coffee. I think this make is really outstanding. I haven't seen it in the USA, but most duty free stores in Europe carry it. Try one or all three of them. Then send me a thank you note.

A travel checklist

2008-08-28T12:41:00.000-07:00

For those of you who are meticulous when you travel, I've included a checklist of things to take on your next trip. You can print this out and adapt as necessary, so you don't forget anything.

Travel Check List (N.B. 3oz or less if you want to check it in and Ziploc is key)

Soap face wash (Clinique has the best one for men)
Toothbrush (Try Elydian - don't take a motorized one)
Toothpaste (Fresh Umbrian clay or Marvis)
Mint flossers (Get the disposable toothpick variety - they're great!)
Mouthwash (Listerine)
Pre-shave oil (Art of Shaving or Truefitt & Hill)
Shaving Cream (Geo Trumper)
Razor (Invest in this)
Mach 3 blades (Don't buy in Edison or at ethnic stores -- you'll get a better price but many are made in the Philippines and don't seem to work as well)
Kiehl’s Hydrating lotion (Awesome -- never put alcohol on your face)
Astringent (Anthony's or Clinique - find out your scruffing lotion strength and then buy the women's bottle -- same price, same stuff, but bigger bottle)
Cotton balls (for taking away grease)
Q-Tips (Love these- but be gentle)
Hair/nose trimmer (Ok guys - you don't want to look like the Geico caveman)
Hairbrush (Use Kiehl's or Mason Pearson)
Medicines – if prescription, pack a few extra
First aid kid (include Band-Aids, Imodium, Tylenol)
Passport – if necessary
Pen with enough ink (ball pen or gel tip - if you use real ink, you're screwed on flights)
Business cards (take these to network and to hand to colleagues)
Computer cords for cell, computer, blackberry, I-pod (if you forget these, know that any hotel front desk usually has a huge box with extra cords - a number of people leave these behind)
Cell/I-pod/computer
Shure 530 pth headphones (the best sound that 500 bucks will buy you)
Charged I-Pod (c'mon - the world's a dull place - don't you want music?)
Underwear (Can't tell you how many guys forget to pack this on trips)

Deodorant/antiperspirant (Gillette makes the best)

Lip Balm (Jack black is amazing)

Pajamas (many guys forget to pack these too)
Socks (bring extra)
Belt (brown or black, depending on what you plan to wear)
Cufflinks (if cuffed shirts)
Ties
Collar stays
Nailclippers
Powder (Try Dr. Hauschka)
Aftershave (ask for free samples in high end stores and use these when you travel)
Shirts (always take one extra)
Trousers (pack one extra)
Suits (pack one extra)
Tide/Shout wipes (for ketchup & mustard)
Small pack of paper tissue
Lotion for dry skin (I can't tell you, especially in winter, how dry skin can itch)
Call Amex or other credit card co, if you are traveling internationally

Alum block (for cuts and scrapes)

Shades

Remember that if you forget some essentials, most hotels can give you a t/brush and t/paste and even shaving cream - but be prepared to cut your face in several places with those disposable razors. Also, be sure to carry a few extra ziplock bags - they come in handy for liquids.

This may seem like a lot, but I've got it down to a science. I never have to ever think when I pack for travel.

On hair transplants and presidential candidates

2008-08-26T07:21:00.000-07:00

Ok. So I got to share something very personal. My dad hasn't stopped his diatribes about my hair (or lack of) and why I need to have a transplant to look my best. I've fought my dad on this time and again, but much to my chagrin, he brings pamphlets from the Bosley clinic and tells me to get the procedure done. I'm slowly caving...

Now, recently, dad sent me an article on dem VP candidate Joe Biden and how he had a hair transpant years ago and dad added in his email attaching the article - -"see how good he looks." Ok. So more pressure...I'd like those of you who read my blog to weigh in on this in the comments section. Should I have a hair transplant?

Now, on the subject of fashion, I've looked at Obama and Biden's styles. Ok - -so they looked very patriotic the other day with the red and blue ties. But here's a little advice for Sen. Obama. Don't wear black. I've learned that when complexion is darker, 365 shades of blue and 365 shades of grey are the way to go. When Sen. Obama wears a black suit, he doesn't look his best -- and I notice he favors the black suit over other colors. As for Joe R. B. I think he's ok - -I like his Hermes and Ferragamo ties and his JRB cufflinks are to die for. Joe Biden also looks good in blue.

The nicest pens

2008-08-11T14:12:00.000-07:00

I know many of you guys like your bic pens and your paper mates. Oh vey. But if you like fine writing instruments (also known as pens), have I got the goods for you. You can check out a selection of fine pens at http://www.joon.com/. I love certain lines like Omas http://www.omas.com/ and Montegrappa http://www.montegrappa.com/. Stay away from Mont Blanc folks - unless you go for their top of the line pens. I've also been quite disappointed with Cartier's pens http://www.cartier.com/. They are expensive, but seem to malfunction a lot. I also think Waterman makes superb pens http://www.waterman.com/. And, you can't go wrong with your basic Parker http://www.parkerpen.com/. They still make a dope instrument.

If you fly a lot, don't buy a fountain pen to travel. The pen is guaranteed to leak inflight and cause damage to your clothes and belongings. I know this company called Airline International http://airlineintl.com/. They sell awesome pens, lighters, luggage, you name it. They also have a great engraving program. If you're a busy executive, you deserve a good pen. Check out these links.

How Crisco became Frisco

2008-08-11T13:56:00.000-07:00

Ok. So I'm an immigrant. And no, I don't live in Queens. But I was horrified the other day, when a friend of mine told me to change my screen name from Crisco Funk to something else.

I asked her why and she told me that Crisco was a sobriquet for a bunch of things that were associated with alternative lifestyles. Bah humbug I thought. These silly Americans don't know what cool is. Besides, I don't judge people or their lifestyles.

Well...much to my horror, Kaitlin referred me to www.urbandictionary.com. I typed in the word Crisco and vomited. So now I am Frisco Funk. And I'm sorry to all you bay area folks out there, but I can't keep Crisco funk. Be well fashionistas.

Loro Piana

2008-08-11T13:19:00.000-07:00

I love classic things. Classic music. Classic cars. Classic fabrics. And the house of Loro Piana www.loropiana.com is just the most classic stuff you will ever buy. Their scarves are incredible - so are their roadster sweaters made with baby goat cashmere, their overcoats that have the famous Loro Piana storm system technology, and their hats. I've seen other manufacturers use Loro piana's lining in their clothing.

I've been to many of their stores, but my favorite is just off Michigan Ave in Chicago. I once told the manager of that store that I liked his stuff, but it was a little boring. He proceeded to go into his inventory and pull some of the most cutting edge fashions that money can buy. Loro Piana is an incredible mill - and if you buy something from them, I guarantee you that your children will inherit and enjoy it, long after you are fertilizing daffodils.

One more thing. If you do go to Loro Piana in Chicago, do also drop by George Greene on Oak Street as well as some other fine retailers at http://www.oakstreetchicago.com/directory.html. I'm doing my bit for Chi-Town.

Brunello Cucinelli

2008-08-11T13:00:00.000-07:00

I love sweaters -- beautiful, colorful, cashmere sweaters. But there are sweaters and sweaters and I love Brunello Cucinelli http://www.brunellocucinelli.it/. They have the most vibrant colors and their cashmere is outstanding. The only problem with Bruno is that it doesn't fit well, if you're out of shape. That's why, I've decided to get on a rigorous exercise routine. I want to wear a Brunello sweater and look good in it. Brunello also makes some great outerwear - -you know, side vents, ticket pockets, rich fabrics, gloves, jackets, hats. Check out their outerwear and invest in a piece when you're feeling flush. I guarantee you that your sweater won't pill even after years of rigorous use.

Shady stuff

2008-08-01T11:23:00.000-07:00

Many of my friends believe that sunglasses should never be expensive. That's because it's an accessory that constantly gets stolen or misplaced. So, much to my chagrin, they buy shades off the streets from vendors. Ok. So that's what they like to do and that's fine. But for you fashionphiles who want to invest in a good pair of shades, let me tell you that I've done my research and you just can't go wrong with Oliver Peoples http://www.oliverpeoples.com/. My English friend Tim introduced me to the brand and I've been loyal ever since. Others swear by the Ray Ban line - http://www.rayban.com/ - I think they are great shades for the price. Yeah - I know it only costs a few bucks to make these glasses and the mark up is ridiculous, but why not make a statement? Some of the celebrities who I think look really cool in shades include Ray Charles, Bono, and George Michael. I think the Prada line is interesting, but rather sporty. I wouldn't wear their shades with a suit -- maybe with a pair of blue jeans (I own a pair of jeans). I also know that Tom Ford and Dolce & Gabbana are making shades and so are the beautifully handcrafted ones from Louis Vuitton. But I'm loyal to my Peoples!

One more thing. Check out www.italiaindependent.com. They make the funkiest shades AND you can have your name engraved in the frame. Always knew those Italians were on the cutting edge of just about everything.

Ermenegildo Zegna

2008-08-01T11:10:00.000-07:00

Zegna is a fabulous brand, but I've been a little dejected with their outsourcing shirt program. I've recently noticed that their shirts are being made in Turkey rather than Italy. And although they make the most beautiful things, I'm not convinced that their shirts are the same Italian quality. What I do love about Zegna is their new shoe line. It appears that Salvatore Ferragamo is making their shoes now, but their private (couture) label is just outstanding - http://www.zegna.com/couture?lang=en. From the style of the shoes to the quality of the leather and sole, Zegna seems to be turning eyes. Zegna also makes the best cashmere turtleneck sweaters and coats. Go to www.zegna.com and check them out.

Boyds Philadelphia - Joel Jaffe

2008-08-01T07:26:00.000-07:00

There's a few remaining men's fashion houses in the United States. One of them is Boyd's in Philadelphia on 1818 Chestnut Street http://www.boydsphila.com/. What's funky about Boyd's is that it apparently was a funeral home back in the day and the mouldings on the chandeliers that hang from the ceilings are made from button molds. Wow.

Boyd's has some terrrific coupon program that enables you to spend more and save more! They carry a brilliant line of Etro, Canali, Trussini, Brioni, Zegna -- in shirts, ties, suits, trousers. But the one department at Boyd's that is truly outstanding is the men's shoe department. I say this not only because they carry a gorgeous line, but because Joel Jaffe works there.

Joel knows shoes like Einstein knew relativity. He can spend hours salivating about the attributes of a good shoe versus what he calls "junk." I've learned from Joel about the split toe, the shoe shank, the Goodyear welted soles, the last of a shoe, the tongue of a shoe. I don't make this shit up. It really is some pretty cool terminology.

Joel can fit you in a very comfortable pair of shoes as he tells you about the show business, his love of pens, his vintage Patek Philippe, his views on various manufacturers. He's also a mensch!

If you're in Philly, drop by Boyd's and go see Joel. You'll learn a lot about life, a lot about shoes, and a lot about why he's a genius.

The House of Creed

2008-07-27T13:29:00.000-07:00

Gentlemen wear different after shaves and cologne. But please do me a favor. If Brut by Faberge is your thing, don't read this entry!

I have seen a lot of otc fragrances with heavy advertising and some of you guys out there probably love the Safari line by Ralph Lauren, or Drakkar Noir, or Davidoff or some other perfume like it. I'm not going to judge you for it. That's cool. BUT... if you're interested in wearing scents that have been the staple for folks like Winston Churchill and Cary Grant, then the House of Creed http://www.creedperfumes.us/index2.php is amazing. Creed's Tabarome and Irish Tweed lines are superb. So is Neuroli Sauvage that has a very fresh, crisp scent. The other perfumery that I really like is Bond No. 9 or http://www.bondno9.com/catalog/. If smelling good is important to you, check these out.

Savile Row - Harvie & Hudson

2008-07-25T20:04:00.000-07:00

I can't remember who coined the phrase "when a man gets tired of London, he gets tired of life." No Gabriel trumpet could have uttered a truer note. I've spent a lot of time in London, and several hours in the bespoke fashion houses. Bespoke (or to be spoken of) refers to the fine art of custom tailoring. Among my many sojourns through the narrow alleys and roads that include Conduit and Jermyn Streets, I have stood mesmerized by the incredible clothing that graces the windows of Savile Row giants. One of these shirtmakers is Harvey & Hudson (http://www.harvieandhudson.com/). One chilly winter morning, in 1999, I met Richard Harvie at his store at 77 Jermyn Street. Richard, a shirtmaker and tie specialist, made the most beautiful shirts on Savile Row. He kindly walked me through the many fabrics and styles of the shirts on display and even gave me his email address at rh@harvieandhudson.com. The telephone number for Harvey and Hudson is 020 7930 3949. I encourage you to view their Web site. I think you'll be blown away.

Doing my bit for Jersey

2008-07-24T05:53:00.000-07:00

I know the Garden State gets a bad rap. But the Garden state boasts of things many other states can't match. A shore in the summer, casinos galore, and some excellent men's clothing stores like Garmany in Red Bank. If you live near the shore or near Wall , NJ, check out http://www.shavesbarbershop.com/Shaves/Index.asp?SPLASH=TRUE for a real girly man experience!

The Ultimate Cigar

2008-07-23T14:53:00.001-07:00

I don't know if you like cigars or care to smoke them. But if you do, I have to tell you about the most amazing cigar on the market today. It's the Cuban brand Partagas and it is a holy smoke. The J&J Cigar company in Los Cabos, Mexico, sells this cigar along with the finest guayaberas that money can buy. But here's the trick. If you want flavor, tell them to punch your cigar, don't slice it. The aroma and richness of this cigar is pretty amazing. I think it beats a Monte Cristo pants down.

If you're in the United States and within spitting distance of Princeton, NJ or Philadelphia, I also recommend two joints for an incredible experience. The first, in Philadelphia, is the Mahogany Cigar bar http://phillycigarbar.com/ . They've got pictures of Winston Churchill on the wall. Need I say more? Mahogany also offers fine Scotch, warm fireplaces, and free Wifi. Much to the chagrin of folks I know, I've spent many late nights at Mahogany, surfing the net. In Princeton, across from the Princeton library, the Havana Cigar Lounge on Witherspoon Street is also nice, but not as upscale or cozy as Mahogany. They also have a New Hope location.

Below Mahogany is the Holt's Cigar Company. This place has a huge humidor. They've also got fine pens from Omas, leather belts from Montblanc, and lighters from S.T. Dupont. Enjoy.

Turnbull & Asser (Bespoke)

2008-07-20T08:14:00.001-07:00

How to tie a bow tie

2008-07-20T07:59:00.000-07:00

I didn't grow up in America, but I live here now. And, much to my chagrin, I've listened to a fascinating diatribe for years on the pros and cons of wearing a bow tie. Never before has such a clothing accessory been so praised, so reviled, often discussed, always misunderstood.

Some of my bond trader friends in NYC tell me that wearing a bow tie suggests a certain kind of arrogance - that the rest of mankind is beneath you. But I think that the right bow tie can make a lovely statement about a man's sense of flair, fashion, confidence, and style.

When I say the right bow tie, I mean one that is actually tied as opposed to clipped. And don't tell me that you can't tie a bow tie. If you can tie your shoe laces, you can tie a bow tie. It's really very simple to master. There are a variety of instuctional videos on You Tube (www.youtube.com) that instruct you on how to tie one. You can also go to the Brooks Brothers Web site at http://www.brooksbrothers.com/TieKnots/bowtie.tem to learn the art of tying a bow tie.

I love the bow ties made by Garrick Anderson in Scotland. They're colorful, of the highest quality, and look great after years of wear. Turnbull & Asser also makes lovely bow ties, many of them made exclusively to match your shirts. You can also buy some very good quality bow ties in lovely colors from Nordstrom (www.nordstrom.com).

I hope you will muster the courage to wear a bow tie one day and walk with confidence into a business meeting. Don't worry what the others might say or think. Be a man.

Sock it to You

2008-07-17T20:45:00.001-07:00

Socks -- they are an important part of your attire. But way too often, I've seen the weirdest colors, patterns, and shapes on people's feet. I don't know where you buy socks, but if you want fine quality that will last you for years, I suggest you invest in the Pantherella line from England. These socks are hand made and the quality is simply amazing. Try on a pair today.

Collar stays

2008-07-17T20:25:00.000-07:00

I have a pet peeve. It's those guys who wear formal shirts with dog ear collars. Why is that? I think its because they put plastic stays in their collars and that makes the collar very susceptible to bending. That's why I believe that every business professional should own a pair of good collar stays. They call stays "bones" in England. I've got a few lovely stays that keep my shirts crisp. Depending on what you like to spend, here's the spill. Jan Leslie (former Wharton school) has a beautiful line of color stays that are fun to wear. You can also buy a set from Charles Tyrwhitt, the Madison Avenue and Savile Row clothier. Oh, of course there is Tiffany & Co. for the beautiful sterling silver set. Whatever you buy, just make sure it ain't plastic.

In fact, someone recently tried to sell me a Stefano Ricci shirt. It's a great shirt with genuine mother of pearl buttons. The problem with Ricci is that the collar stay is built into the collar and it's not a metal stay. Over a few wears, the shirt begins to lose its stiff collar appeal. So my recommendation is to only buy shirts that allow you to place a stay in the collar. That way, you won't be barking at your next sales presentation.

Brioni

2008-07-04T08:48:00.000-07:00

I've got this weakness for the House of Brioni. They just know how to make shirts. Beautiful shirts in vibrant colors with lovely fabric. I remember visting their store in Rome some years ago. It was an experience. I just don't know how the Italians do it, but they always deliver. Brioni's shirts have become extremely expensive and the exchange rate doesn't help either. But their quality endures and the sheen of their fabric is legendary. Of course, if you're not in shape, Brioni isn't for you. Their shirts are a tad bit fitted. But if you can wear them, the beautiful mother of pearl buttons, the incredible hand stitching, and the cut of the shirt is majestic. Go to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brioni to find out more.

The two sharpest dressed men I know

2008-07-04T08:37:00.000-07:00

I observe the way men dress. And much too often I'm not terribly impressed. As I've heard some say before, fashion can be bought, but style is inherent. Nothing makes me cringe more than to see the number of men who wear odd fitting pants -- indeed the floods seem to be back in style. And some of the combinations, when it comes to color coordination, are astonishing. Yet, my faith in fashion is restored when I see my two friends who take dapper to an entirely new level. The first is Bill Roundtree, at the Neiman Marcus men's suiting department in King of Prussia, PA. Bill is an incredibly sharp dresser and a consummate gentlemen. He's always really well put together and it appears always as though he never even has to try. I once asked Bill how he got such a thick knot on his ties. "If I told you, I'd have to kill you," he responded jokingly. The other guy who graced the pages of Esquire is Clifton Wilson. He used to work in the men's suit department at Nordstrom, but now works for UPS. Clifton introduced me to the three-piece Hickey Freeman suit. Aah...now that's a suit. Peal lapels, side vents, ticket pockets, flared bottoms. Clifton wore a suit like it was made of spandex. It fit him like a glove. I'm not sure where Clifton is these days, but I'm sure he's setting fashion trends at UPS. Thanks to Bill and Clifton for keeping my faith alive in the ability to dress well and look good - always.

Nick Hilton

2008-07-02T06:05:00.001-07:00

I've been to a lot of great clothing stores in the United States and abroad. But I've got to tell you about this store on Witherspoon Street in Princeton, NJ called Nick Hilton. It's an AMAZING place. Nick has been in the clothing business for years, and you can tell. He knows his fabrics, he knows his styles, he knows his quality. And, he's never pushy. Most importantly, Nick is a gentleman who will sell you things you'll be happy with for years to come.

I first met Nick some years ago, when I was strolling down Witherspoon Street. I saw some very attractive outfits in his store window and had to enter. He's one of the ONLY folks in the area who carries the very stylish Hilditch & Key Shirt. Hilditch & Key can give any shirt a run for its money and the quality is breathtaking. After all, we're talking Savile Row. Nick also sells the famous Crescent Alligator belt that is handmade in Louisiana and he stocks a variety of terrific suits, many from Hickey Freeman and premier Italian fashion houses. Nick's prices are extremely reasonable and his store even includes a woman's section with great tops, shirts, skirts, suits and dresses. He also has carried merchandise from Paul & Shark and Vineyard Vines. All in all, if you are in Princeton, drop by Nick's store and say hello. I can tell you that within minutes you'll take a tremendous liking to him and trust his brilliant ability to fit you appropriately.

Andreas Santoni

2008-07-01T08:06:00.001-07:00

I've owned a lot of shoes. A lot of shoes. But I have to say that there's nothing that rivals the quality of a Santoni, especially in its price range. The Santoni shoe is incredibly well made, with high end leather, superb construction, and an excellent weight. The're also cutting edge in design and look great with casual trousers or with formal suits. I've been buying Santoni shoes for years now and have to thank my friend Joel Jaffe at Boyd's in Philadelphia for turning me on to them. Gucci and Prada and all the other fashionable stuff may stay hot in the minds of young people, but do me a favor and invest in a pair of Santonis. You'll thank me for doing so.

A Close Shave

2008-07-01T07:50:00.000-07:00

I'm the consummate metrosexual. And I know my products. That's especially when it comes to getting a close shave. I think if you use the Acqua di Parma line or Geo Trumpers, or Taylor's of Old Bond Street, or The Art of Shaving or Dermalogica, you can't really go wrong. But let me tell you about my daily routine when it comes to getting a close shave.

When showering, I like to use Dermalogica's face cleaner to soften my beard. Their products are gentle and smell great. I also like the Fresh Line of facial cleansers - -the olive scent for men is supreme. Once I've showered, the daily ritual of a clean shave is essential. I start with applying the Art of Shaving pre-shave oil. I've tried a number of pre-shave oils including Anthony's, Dermalogica, Trueffitt & Hill, and Taylor's, but there's something about the thickness and consistency of the Art of Shaving pre-shave oil that preps your beard like nothing else possibly can. Once I've prepped, I take my Acqua di Parma badger brush (the softest brush that money can buy) and dab some Acqua di Parma shaving cream on to the brush. Their shaving cream is great, but a little tough on consistency, so I soften it in hot water before applying to the badger. I then swirl the badger brush in a circular motion all over my neck and face, forming a rich lather. The aim here is to ensure that the thick lather completely covers your face so you can't see a trace of your beard. Then, using a Mach 3 blade on a heavy razor, I begin to shave in gentle, yet firm strokes. Aah...it feels heavenly. Once done, I re-lather, and shave against the grain. This gives an incredibly close shave, especially in areas on the neck. I then dab my face with cold water to close the pores and voila -- an awesome shave. But it isn't over yet. To ensure the skin is not dry, I use Kiehl's non alcoholic herbal toner to cool off. Kiehl's has an excellent line of products and their toner hydrates the face. Many guys make the mistake of using alcohol based post shave lotions or after shave to dab their face -- don't do it. Not a good thing for your face. Of course, if you use a straight edge razor, you're one up on me. I don't have the guts to use one. I will say that The Borgata in Atlantic City gives awesome shaves - so does the Art of Shaving on Madison Avenue.

That Turnbull Shirt

2008-07-01T07:34:00.000-07:00

I took my wife over to Turnbull and Asser in NYC on Saturday. I love that store. It's got the coolest shirts and ties and cufflinks that would make Demosthenes stammer. In fact, I've never seen prettier enamel initialized cufflinks than the ones at Turnbull. They'll run you 290 a pop and take about 5 weeks to make, but when you wear them, you'll see they're worth every penny you paid. Turnbull also makes some incredible shirts. Their lavender shirts are to die for and better priced than Brioni or Borrelli. Yet, the quality is outstanding, the craftsmanship, superb.

Upstairs at their 57th street hang, Simon is no longer the tailor -- he's moved to T&A in California. But Felix is an awesome guy and can fit you well. I also love the Churchill poster upstairs. All in all a great store and great experience. Buy a Turnbull shirt today. I don't think you'l l ever live to regret it.